Article

Travel to Amsterdam

Story by Sherry Jo Williams

Photography by Jonas Briels

Amsterdam is a petite but powerful magnet for travellers of every stripe - be they hippies seeking out green-stickered coffee shops or the cultured, craving Van Gogh and Vermeer—or vice versa. To a visitor, the city’s incongruity of the traditional and the avant-garde is clearly evident. To a local, it’s relished like a good pipe.

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Even A’dam’s preferred modes of transportation reflect this sense of cultural democracy. Whereas cars outnumber bikes in American cities, the reverse is true in this shortlisted candidate for “European Green Capital 2010.”

So, to travel like a denizen, rent a bicycle, lease an electric bike-taxi, or take advantage of the world-class public transportation system and hop on a tram, bus, metro, or ferry. At least one serpentine cruise along the canals is mandatory.

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Near Centraal Station, you’ll find The 9 Straatjes, a suite of cozy, but bustling streets that almost magically become elaborate bridges that meander over sudden canals. It’s here that quintessential Dutch contemporary designs can be found. Many of the shops along these cobblestone roads are teeming with opportunity, but ➋ The Frozen Fountain is a definite winner. More gallery than shop, its mix of limited-edition furniture, fabrics, rugs, and accessories, is often commissioned from Dutch masters such as Hella Jongerius and Piet Hein Eek. Paul Koeleman, a prominent book and graphic designer says, “Frozen Fountain’s commitment to Dutch artisans, both known and emerging, is invaluable.”

After roaming through this chic neighborhood, take a moment to pause at ➌ Droog, the dramatically appointed headquarters of the powerful design brand. In a refurbished three-story structure which dates back to 1641, passionate fans of 21st-Century design can experience the infamous “Chest of Drawers” by Tejo Remy or Marcel Wanders’ “Knotted Chair.”

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Another inspiring example of recycled architecture is ➑ Sprmrkt. LoftLife’s other A’dam expert, Marcel Schreuder from Springtime design (an international firm with clients ranging from Coca-Cola to Nike), loves this place. “The name is a clever abbreviation from its previous incarnation as a supermarket,” explains Shreuder. Not far from the 9 Straatjes, SPRMRKT mixes furniture and fashion from local designers with an impressive bookstore stocked with publications like vintage Domus magazines, plus an inviting café.

Surrounding the 9 Straatjes is the much larger Jordaan district. Built in the 1600s, it was established as central housing for the workers of this rapidly expanding city. Strolling through The Jordaan, you’ll find a broad menu of shopping options.

The major must-see is ➐ Jessica Padt’s marvelous upholstery workshop and showroom. Her success hinges on an impressive assortment: from work by Kvadrat Maharam to the unique, vintage textiles she’s found. She welcomes “classic to modern, retro to kitsch” pieces and specialises in Artifort (an important Dutch upholstery label from the 60s). Given the lean global economy, there’s been a newfound appreciation for her refreshing heirlooms that are more than reasonably priced. Koeleman is an unabashed fan of Jessica Padt’s studio and her skills, calling her “an indispensable asset.”

At the northern tip of The Jordaan, stands the distinguished ➒ Westerhuis. Founded by design icon, Marcel Wanders, this former schoolhouse is now a hive of activity with the moooia prominent gallery showcased on the ground floor, firms specializing in art and culture throughout, and The Hub, an open-plan space on the top floor with temporary desks, internet access, and a library. For those who skipped “Dutch Design 101,” Rietveld’s revolutionary red and blue lacquered lounge chair in the 1920s established the Netherlands as a leader in the world of design, and The Westerhuis is further proof that this trend is alive and kicking.

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If you’re into the vintage look, check out ➍ Anno for exceptional late 20th-Century furnishings. Our experts, Koeleman and Schreuder, both love Anno’s sexy 60s upholstery by Pierre Paulin. Anno also carry 70s pieces from Magis, as well as current labels like Kartell, and Dutch super-star, ARP, known for their beautifully executed wooden tables and seating, a natural choice for any sparse space.

Heading south to the Museumplein, it’s impossible to miss The Stedelijk, “the MoMA of Holland.” Established in 1895, renovations to this grand old building are expected to be completed December 2009. Until then, with typical Dutch resourcefulness, a portable initiative is touring the city via pre-fab construction cabins. Called ➊ “Stedelijk Goes to Town” these newsstand-sized mobile units keep the museum’s collection available by housing temporary art exhibitions and performances.

Next to investigate is De Pijp, a quaint area with a vibrant scene. Like its neighboring ’hoods, De Pijp is a study in contradictions. Juxtaposing Amsterdam’s charm with the super-hip is ➓ Sid Lee Collective, an internatio nal creative agency focused on communications and branding. The Collective sports an expansive gallery, boutique, and café, ideal for those hungry for design or food. As Koeleman points out: “It’s great—music, art, cuisine, and in my neighborhood!”

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Nearby is the popular ➎ Vintage Home, a highly recommended high-end source of furnishings from Aalto to Eames, plus surprises from the 30s to 80s. Constantly changing the look of the showroom, the founder is eager to display these important classics in a comfy setting. It’s a great place to treat yourself to an Aldo van den Nieuwelaar collectible, a 70s Grundig hi-fi speaker, or a 60s Saarinen marble table.

Before leaving the De Pijp—or Amsterdam for that matter, all sightseers must explore at least one of the dozens of specialty outdoor markets. The Albert Cuyp Market is the largest and most well known of the open-air bazaars around town and is conveniently open six days a week. Packed with a lively mix of antiques, Asian imports, and obligatory bric-a-brac, the Albert Cuyp Market is also well stocked with fresh, local food purveyors.

Both Schreuder and Koeleman insist that any guide to this unique city is incomplete without a suggested walk through the transitional neighborhood of KNSM Eiland. Here, you’ll discover a real prize, ➏ The Pols Potten Winkel (winkel=shop), a mixture of private label and top name furniture and products. Pols Potten pride themselves on selling handmade goods that are “subtle, innovative, with a hint of quirkiness,” in other words, the epitome of Amsterdam.

Amsterdam still sits squarely on the shoulders of sturdy dikes, technically below sea level, but obviously well above the common ground in architecture, interiors, and innovation. A visit to the capital of the Netherlands, for the first or fiftieth time, is guaranteed to satisfy the most blasé urbanite. The wise and weathered Dutch still offer the fruit of 400 years of savvy experience and international trade, plus the bonus of world-class designers from the last ten years. And all are equally welcome to explore Amsterdam’s notorious neighborhoods, share its Old World warmth, and revel in the future projected by its rich design.

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